Christian enjoying all that the Dolomites have to offer
Field Notes
The Dolomites: More Than Mountains
Ten days. Over 500 miles. Nearly 55,000 feet of climbing. All on a bicycle, over some of the world’s most iconic mountain passes, at 57 years old. Ouch. Why did I let my old college cycling buddies talk me into this?
I’d hiked the Dolomites years ago, but returning this fall was a revelation. The 2026 Winter Olympics had brought fresh investment in lifts, trails and hotels, but what struck me most was how much these mountains offer beyond hardcore cycling and serious hiking.
Easy valley rides, leisurely walks, medieval villages, mountain huts serving terrific lunches, and Aperol spritzes with views worth lingering over. Turns out you don’t need to suffer to enjoy the Dolomites. Who knew?
Here’s five ways to love them. No personal trainer required.
A leisurely ride through the Dolomites
1. Hiking Without Conquering Everest
The Dolomites do drama exceptionally well. Limestone towers, impossibly green meadows, jagged ridgelines—and mountain huts where lunch can easily become the day’s main event.
Better yet, gondolas do much of the hard work. Ride up, wander beneath those towering peaks, settle in for lunch at a rifugio like Ütia Bioch near San Cassiano, and hike as much—or as little—as you please. More ambitious? There’s no shortage of challenging trails and via ferrata adventures.
Where to stay: COMO Alpina Dolomites, surrounded by the meadows of Alpe di Siusi, with panoramic walks right outside the door.
A flat stretch through mountain towns
2. Cycling for the Pros. And the Rest of Us.
Passo Giau, Falzarego, Stelvio and Gavia. Mountain passes that make serious cyclists grin—and shudder.
But here’s what surprised me: some of the most scenic riding on my trip was practically flat.
The Via Claudia Augusta and Sentiero Valtellina cycle routes wind through apple orchards, vineyards and villages, alongside rivers cloudy with glacial silt. Stop for an espresso, then pedal on. E-bikes make longer outings a breeze, while gravel riders can disappear onto old military roads and forest tracks.
Where to stay: The recently reopened family-owned Aman Rosa Alpina in San Cassiano is the best hotel in the entire region—hands down. Sensational owner Hugo Pizzinnini redefines hospitality—from interiors and cuisine to spa. There’s both legendary cycling routes and the Valley Bike Trail right outside their door. Nearby Cortina d’Ampezzo adds a little alpine glamour.
A family hike through the alpine meadows
3. Bring the Whole Family. Really.
One of the Dolomites’ best tricks? Keeping everyone happy without requiring everyone to do the same thing – or spend hours on a trail.
Take a gondola to a family-friendly walk. Cycle a valley path, stopping for gelato and Apfelschorle (sparkling apple juice). Swim in an alpine lake, try rafting or climbing, or simply explore a mountain village.
Meanwhile, the ambitious can tackle a big pass while the rest enjoy a long lunch or ride a single-seat chairlift above a town like Merano. Regroup for dinner, compare stories, and choose from a whole new set of adventures tomorrow.
Mountain views in South Tyrol, Italy.
4. Italy With a Tyrolean Twist.
In South Tyrol, you may hear more German than Italian. The region blends Italian and Austrian influences, from its architecture to its menus featuring everything from pasta to knödel (dumplings). Local beers share tables with Italian wines, and apple strudel is practically a food group.
The history is just as vaired. Ancient trading routes cross these mountains, while World War I fortifications still cling to ridges where Italian and Austro-Hungarian soldiers once fought.
Where to stay: Forestis, perched high above Bressanone, where contemporary alpine design meets sweeping mountain views.
Rolling vineyards overlooking Bolzano in South Tyrol
5. And There’s So Much More Just Beyond.
Fly into Venice and spend a night or two getting lost along its canals before heading north. Stop in Belluno, gateway to the southern Dolomites, or spend a night or two at Villa Abbazia in Follina, amid the Veneto countryside. Or keep heading west, connecting great Alpine passes, Tyrolean valleys and Lake Como. Switzerland is just beyond.
Paddleboarding on the turquoise waters of Lake Molveno
One Last Thought
There’s a season for everyone, too. Summer and fall for hiking and cycling, winter for skiing, and spring for quieter valleys as the snow slowly retreats.
The Dolomites have always been spectacular. But experiencing what makes them special no longer requires heroic legs or a willingness to suffer. Turns out the mountains have gotten a little easier on us. And they just keep getting better.
finis.
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