Cycling across a traditional bamboo bridge in rural Vietnam
Field Notes
Vietnam: What We Love – and What We’d Save for Next Time
Vietnam is chaotic, scenic, culturally rich and one of our favorite places to eat. It’s also fantastic for active travel, with great biking, walking and paddling woven naturally into the experience. From Hanoi’s buzzing streets to quiet river islands and limestone peaks, here’s what we love most.
The bustling waterfront of Hoi An
1. Getting Lost in Hanoi – yes, on Purpose!
Skip the checklist and wander Hanoi’s Old Quarter, where scooters and street-food stalls mix with old shop houses, cocktail bars and contemporary artisan shops. When it’s time to get off your feet, treat yourself to a haircut in The Metropole’s salon. Cappuccino in hand, settle in as one stylist cuts your hair while two others massage your shoulders and arms—a quirky and very welcome respite.
Expert tip: crossing the street can feel like a video game at first, but there’s a rhythm to it. Pick your line, walk slowly and steadily, and don’t zig-zag or stop. The scooters will flow around you. Really!
A taste of Vietnam's street food culture, enjoyed from a sidewalk stool
2. Eating. And Then Eating Again.
Phở, bún chả, bánh mì, fresh seafood, egg coffee—and plenty of dishes you may not recognize even after they hit the table. Follow the locals, pull up a tiny plastic stool and dig in. Vietnam is one of the world’s great food destinations, from roadside noodle shops to buzz-worthy bistros. And it’s safe. Locals use fresh ingredients and purified water. It’s the big resort’s massive buffet you should be wary of!
A morning bike ride through the rice paddies of Ninh Binh
3. Ninh Binh by Boat & Bike
Limestone karsts rise from rice fields and winding rivers just south of Hanoi. Explore quiet waterways by private sampan, then hop on an e-bike and pedal between villages and fields. Feeling energetic? Climb the 500 steps of Hang Mua to a tiny mountaintop pagoda for one of northern Vietnam’s best views.
Cruising the emerald waters of Ha Long Bay aboard a Heritage Line junk
4. Going Deeper into Ha Long Bay
Ha Long Bay is spectacular, but it pays to venture beyond the busiest areas. Spend two nights aboard a private boat, like one of the luxury junks from Heritage Line, and you’ll have time to reach quieter coves, authentic floating villages and empty beaches. Kayak beneath towering karsts, explore hidden caves and enjoy the bay after the day-trippers have left.
A coastal retreat at Banyan Tree Lang Co, north of Hoi An
5. Hoi An Beyond its Ancient Town
Hoi An’s lantern-lit old town deserves a visit, but some of our favorite experiences lie just beyond it, away from the crowds. From the beaches of The Nam Hai, hop on a bike and ride through villages on river islands, passing water buffalo in the fields and school kids cycling home in traditional áo dài. Add fishing from a basket boat or a Vietnamese cooking lesson with Ms. Vy and you’ve got a storybook day. Pair Hoi An with Hue for imperial history, rural landscapes and distinctive regional food. Between the two, bike over Hai Van Pass, where the mountains drop toward the sea, and through the coastal lagoons of Lang Co, where Banyan Tree offers a luxurious base amid traditional fishing villages.
A different kind of traffic in Vietnam
6. Leaving Room for the Unexpected
In Vietnam, some of the best moments are the ones you didn’t plan. See the major sights, but don’t schedule every minute. Leave room for experiences that never make the guidebooks—or the latest Insta craze. Give yourself ample time for these discoveries, or travel with Gray & Co. guides, whose deep local knowledge and connections open unexpected doors—from private homes to centuries-old temples rarely accessible to the public.
A glimpse of daily life among the rice terraces of Sa Pa
What We’d Save for Next Time
1. Sa Pa
We love Sa Pa. The dramatic mountains, hilltribe culture and hiking make it well worth the journey, but getting there takes time. Give it at least three nights rather than squeezing it into an already busy itinerary. Better yet, make it a reason to come back.
2. Saigon
A night or two in bustling Saigon (as locals still call it) is a hoot. We love its markets, energy and incredible food scene; we’ve detoured here just to fill our bellies.
If your flights take you through Saigon, stay at the Park Hyatt and dive in. An afternoon and evening can be plenty. Otherwise, save it for another trip and use it as the jumping-off point for exploring the Mekong Delta.
finis.
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