Bhutan
This Himalayan kingdom has been on our radar for several decades for countless good reasons. Surrounded by India, China and Nepal, Bhutan is a land of soaring mountains, deep glacial valleys and sinuous roads that wind between them, revealing spectacular scenery around each bend. The savvy planners and guides at Gray & Co. excel at producing the ultimate journeys in this challenging yet stunning country, where elevations range from 4,265ft in Punakha to 9,800ft in Gangtey. Explorations feature well-paced cycling routes between remote hamlets, trekking among mountain villages and building lifelong friendships with the irresistible locals.
Begin the adventure with a flight from Bangkok or Kathmandu into Paro. Start explorations here in Paro or in nearby Thimpu. Or catch a domestic flight or chartered helicopter east to Bumthang, Bhutan’s cultural heartland.
At Amankora Bumthang, part of the collection that pioneered luxury hospitality in Bhutan, cycle to the sacred pilgrimage site of Membar Tsho, or Burning Lake, before continuing through the Chamkhar Chu Valley past alpine farms and stone homes with chilies drying on their rooftops. Visit ancient monasteries, light butter lamps and join Buddhist rituals that remain central to daily life.
Continue west into the Phobjikha Valley, a broad glacial basin of blue-pine forests, yaks, whitewashed farmhouses and wintering black-necked cranes. Settle into Gangtey Lodge, one of our all-time favorite retreats. Overlooking the 17th-century Gangtey Monastery, it’s a destination in itself, especially after a day on the trails. The lodge’s traditional Bhutanese hot-stone bath (dotsho) is addictive—a centuries-old ritual involving fire-heated river stones, medicinal herbs and a wooden soaking tub.
Descend more than 4,000 feet toward Punakha, where terraced rice paddies replace alpine forest. Cycle through small villages dotted with yue chim—traditional Bhutanese houses with thick earthen walls and intricately carved wooden windows—on your way to the Po Chhu River, the “Father River.” Raft to its confluence with the Mo Chhu, the “Mother River,” finishing beneath the gold-spired roofs of Punakha Dzong, Bhutan’s magnificent 17th-century fortress. At &Beyond Punakha River Lodge, try your hand at the national obsession of archery alongside our friend Namgay, a former champion.
A winding drive (or quick heli) over 10,000-foot Dochu La Pass brings you into Thimphu, a capital so small it has no traffic lights. Sample traditional ema datshi—a fiery combination of chilies and cheese. Wash it down with Special Courier, a homegrown whisky with royal roots. Pemako Thimphu, the renovated former Taj, is our “downtown” pick, while Six Senses Thimphu offers a tranquil hillside retreat overlooking the valley.
An hour’s drive upriver brings you to Paro, where local astrologers still guide important decisions. Don a traditional gho or kira for a reading of your own. Amankora Paro is tucked into a dense pine forest and features a new Spa House with hammam, wood-fired banya sauna and cold plunges. Further up the valley, the handcrafted, dzong-style Zhiwaling Heritage Hotel is another top place to stay.
Save Bhutan’s most iconic hike for last: Taktsang, or Tiger’s Nest, the 17th-century monastery perched nearly 3,000 feet above the 7,000-foot Paro Valley. Gray & Co. guides know the way into meditation caves typically closed to visitors—one final boost to your Gross National Happiness.
While Bhutan charms with tranquil valleys, Nepal is the land of masssive, iconic peaks. In Kathmandu, a short direct flight from Paro, Hindu temples and bustling markets are the norm. Trek beneath towering snowcapped peaks, cycle along the Seti River near Pokhara and tackle whitewater rapids. Keep the binoculars handy for wild tigers and elephants in Chitwan National Park. Favorite stays include The Dwarika’s in Kathmandu, Ang Tshering Lama’s Happy House long favored by Sir Edmund Hillary, and Bill Bensley’s Shinta Mani Mustang in the high desert. More Himalayan bliss awaits.
